Author(s): Guillaume Dufau
Surfing: sport of Hawaiian kings and king of aquatic sports. Practiced since time immemorial in the South Pacific, in the 20th century it has conquered beaches all around the world and given rise to many sports born from the imagination and passion of those practicing it. From windsurfing to kite surfing, passing through bodyboarding or tow-in surfing - which allows surfers, using jet skis, to conquer vertiginous aquatic peaks, impossible to face in the past with just the force of the arms - numerous technical innovations have allowed the tribe of wave-hunters to increase their numbers. Creative technology goes hand-in-hand with profound respect for the traditional "cavalcades" inherited from the past, such as Body Surfing, a movement of the body upon the wave inspired by dolphins, or Standup Paddling, done with a huge board maneuvered on foot with the aid of a paddle. This book is a magnificent photographic journey through the history of gliding on waves, enriched by testimonies from top champions in each of the disciplines.
GUILLAUME DUFAU Originally from Landes, the department in the southwest of France famous all around the world for the quality of its waves, Guillaume Dufau discovered surfing on the beach break waves of Hossegor in the 1980s. In 1997, after his studies in journalism, he became part of the Surf Saga magazine team, becoming editor-in-chief a year later at the age of 24. After that, for 10 years he was head of the editing department for the monthly Surf Session, at Biarritz, for whom he produced numerous documentaries from the four corners of the world, particularly Tahiti. A great reporter, he regularly publishes articles on the so-called sport de glisse, travel, and environment, for the French and international press. KAI LENNY At only 18 years of age, Kai Lenny is a precocious waterman, who lives for and by the ocean. His childhood on the island of Maui, Hawaii, enabled him to be in close contact with the waves of his childhood heroes: Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, Robby Naish... accomplished and versatile watermen who would partner him in windsurfing, kite surfing, and Stand Up Padlle sessions, or while surfing the giant waves at Jaws. Constantly traveling around the world, this exceptionally mature teenager is conscious of his privileged existence, but shows no complex career ambitions: "I want to be number 1 in Stand Up Padlle and windsurfing, but I especially want to continue making progress in all the disciplines that I practice, without favoring one or the other for the wrong reasons, like money or fame. It is the pursuit of pleasure and respect for the moods of the ocean that will always guide me."
Surfing; Windsurfing; Kite-surfing; Bodyboarding; Always riding the wave; Bodysurfing; Longboarding/Stand Up Paddling; Tow-In surfing.